Cheese grits, butter grits, grits and gravy — even sweet grits, the possibilities are endless.
When they put grits on the menu around here, chefs in the state of North Carolina know they're taking you back home to your childhood kitchen, like when mom or dad would set down a big bowl of grits for breakfast.
At least, that’s what some chefs say they remember when they were growing up in the South.
It’s why they say grits get handed down from generation to generation and end up on menus all over the state.
For example, James Bazzelle said he remembers the white grits his parents would make almost everyone morning, describing it like it was cereal.
"We’re almost there, but we’re going to add the heavy cream,” Bazzelle mused while looking over a pot in his professional kitchen.
That Georgia boy, who had grits every morning, grew up to be the head chef and owner of Mert’s Heart and Soul in Uptown Charlotte.
"Well, a true Southerner really loves his grits,” Bazzelle added.
But some things do change, and Bazzelle uses stoneground yellow grits now, saying he likes the flavor better.
Grits are on the menu at lunch, dinner and brunch at Bazzelle’s restaurant. And the recipe has not changed much since his childhood.
"Get a pot of water boiling with butter or margarine, and then wait till it comes to a rolling boil, then you gotta add your grits. These are going to take a while, unlike your instant grits,” Bazzelle said with the expertise of someone who’s spent a lifetime making grits.
It’s almost like the recipe is ingrained in North Carolina chefs.
Across town at Dish in Plaza Midwood, the steps are pretty much the same down to the technique.
"You got to continously stir it, 'cause obviously you don’t want to burn it,” Vance Houser said.
Which is similar advice Bazzelle had, "You got to stir em and stir em, the worst thing about grits is when they stick to the bottom."
There is some difference of course, Houser adds heavy cream with the butter and water to bring it to a boil, then adds the grits.
For Bazzelle, the heavy cream comes after the grits are thickening in the water and butter. From there, the the possibilities are endless.
The versatility of grits is what’s kept them on menus in North Carolina for decades.
"We usually do grit cakes, we did grits for dinner, spicy grits, grits is just a great food,” Bazzelle explained.
"People have just grown up with it, obviously they’re delicious and very versatile, you can kind of do whatever you want with them,” Houser added.
Combined, Bazzelle and Houser make large servings of grits several times a week for their restaurants, measured in gallons, not cups. The grits serve as sides and as staples of dishes like fish and grits, or shrimp and grits.
Across the South, you’ll find all types of grits orders.
"I’m not too big on sugar, but all the above everything else I like,” Kayla Munsey said.
Munsey is a server and hostess at Mert’s Heart and Soul and grew up in Charlotte.
At Dish, the grits are just as ingrained.
"I’ve been eating grits since I was born, with butter and cheese,” Sam Houser said. "Just like salt, pepper, butter, maybe some cheese,” added his sister Haley Houser.
And then, there are even more creative orders, "I eat them with goat cheese and tomatoes on top,” said Dish customer Megan Cole.
But why have grits been so gritty, sticking around as a Southern staple for generations?
Bazzelle gave it a guess.
"Back in the early 17, 1800s you eat grits and you go all day working, people work, walk, energy! To keep going,” Bazzelle said in his kitchen.
Others, like Houser and his siblings, think they’ve stuck around so long because folks like them grew up on grits.
From the childhood kitchen table to their professional kitchens, grits have grinded their way into the hearts of these cooks, which is why they’re fine calling any recipe battle a draw.
"I don’t think nobody has a claim on the best grits,” Bazzelle said with a wink. "I mean — It’s just like moon pies, everybody got a moon pie, everybody got grits.”
Hungry for grits and searching for a good recipe? Try this one from North Carolina-based Carolina Grits Company:
1 cup of dry grits
3 cups of water
Pinch of salt
For savory grits, replace water with chicken or vegetable stock
For rich and creamy, use two cups of water and 1 cup of milk or heavy cream
Use a medium pot, combine the grits and the water (or substitute liquid), bringing to a boil
Drop heat to low and stir (grits can stick to bottom of pan if heat is too high)
Cover and cook on low for 30-35 minutes, stirring occasionally
If preferred, you can add cheese and/or butter at the end