DALLAS — Gino Batala considers himself the perfect example of the American Dream.
When he moved to Dallas from Brazil in 1990, he found a job as a dishwasher at a small, locally owned downtown pizzeria.
“For immigrants like me, the easiest place to find work is in the service industry,” said Batala. “I didn’t speak one word of English.”
Carmine’s Pizzeria had been owned and operated by Carmine Dibernado since 1975.
“I was so thankful he gave me a job,” said Batala. “The old Italian man liked that this Brazilian kid had an Italian name.”
Dibernado became a mentor to Batala and the two worked well together. It wasn’t long before Batala graduated from washing dishes to tossing dough.
After just two years of working for Dibernado, Batala asked his boss if he could buy the pizzeria. Dibernado, who was ready to retire, took his offer.
Batala became owner of the restaurant in 1993 at just 22 years old.
“I learned everything from that old man,” said Batala. “He always told me, ‘Gino, if it’s not broke, don’t fix.’ So I use the same cheese, the same sauce. I’ve kept his same recipe all these years.”
For 26 years, business had been good, as Dallas’ downtown has grown with more businesses and residents.
Back in the '90s, downtown Dallas was all business, according to president and CEO of Parks for Downtown Dallas, Amy Meadows. She said less than 100 people lived in the downtown area.
“Prior to 2002, downtown Dallas had no residential population. People worked here and then they left come 5 o’clock,” said Meadows. “Now, in 2022, more than 13,000 people live in downtown Dallas.”
Business for Batala took a nosedive when the COVID-19 pandemic caused many corporate businesses in downtown to transition to working from home. The lack of people working nearby took away the constant traffic Batala and his family had thrived on.
“We lost a lot of business,” said Batala. “On an average morning this place used to be packed. We’re not seeing that type of traffic now since a lot of the people who worked in the offices around us are still working from home.”
That’s just one of the setbacks Batala has faced over the last two years. A shortage of staff has him washing dishes again.
“I used to have nine people working with me,” said Batala. “Now it’s only three of us on an average day.”
According to the Texas Restaurant Association, businesses like Batala’s are struggling to rebuild staff with almost 80% of the state’s restaurants still not having enough employees to meet their demand.
“It’s been hard but I consider myself blessed,” said Batala. “Although business is slower, I’m still getting enough to pay the bills.”
Sixteen restaurants near his closed over the last two years.
“Out of those 16, the majority never came back,” said Batala. “The woman who owned the business next door to me had been here before I took over. She cried the day she left and I felt her pain,” said Batala as he fought back tears.
Since March of 2020, Batala has feared he would have to close as well, but he believes in the power of pizza and positivity.
“I’m a fighter, I’m not going to give up,” said Batala. “When I start to worry, I look at the pictures I have on the wall of my kids.”
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