LOS ANGELES — Skirball Cultural Center curators Cate Thurston and Laura Mart said “I’ll Have What She’s Having” explains how a massive wave of Jewish immigration in the 19th and 20th centuries brought people from Eastern and Central Europe to the U.S. and combined food traditions to create a uniquely American food culture.

Many of LA’s iconic delis have disappeared over the years, but the traditions remain alive in long-time delis such as Canter’s and even newer artisanal delis.

Marc Canter, who owns and operates Canter’s, said he sticks to old school traditions which, although take more time, effort and cost, are what bring people from around the world over to the deli.